Marios Schwab London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 | BACKSTAGE
First Look: Marios Schwab AW15 Collection – 6 Reasons Why He’s A Fashion Genius
London Fashion Week hasn’t even kicked off yet but we got an exclusive look at Marios Schwab’s dreamy designs for winter
The Greek/Austrian designer Marios Schwab, one of the capital’s most technically skilled talents, has become famous for intricately-crafted creations, drawn from intriguing inspirations. This season, instead of the usual catwalk chaos, we got a personal tour through his AW15 collection in the civilised surrounds of a Hotel Café Royal suite. How Fifties couture!
1. He’s turned anatomical drawings into clothes
Marios’ moodboard was covered in drawings by the 16th-century physician Andreas Vesalius, reflected in embellishments designed to trace the skeleton. ‘The veins almost look like coral in his drawings,’ Schwab told us, an idea that found its way into red tentacle-like beading on dress bodices.
2. His colour palette comes from Francis Bacon
Burnt orange, ice blue and a grey he calls ‘Fumo di Londra’ (London smoke) are all inspired by Bacon’s 1944 ‘Tryptych’, which was in turn influenced by Spanish painter Velasquez.
3. He’s made a detachable necklace made of magnifying glass
We adored the detachable harness-style necklace made from a column of slices of magnifying glass – designed to amplify the fabric lying underneath. Another dress features a detachable red leather harness. Clever.
4. His buttons have a USP
The black jacquard dress looks fabulous enough – and that’s before we discovered that each of the gold buttons tracing the seams was individually sourced. ‘It was tricky as they all had to be a uniform 1-1.3cm width,’ he explained. Some are from his family, and from archives and some were found in specialist Austrian and then actually plated in 18-carat gold.
Video: Julien Macdonald AW15 Behind The Scenes London Fashion Week
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